Grappa is an institution in Leichhardt. Despite being located on the “wrong end” of Norton Street, it has been a landmark of Little Italy since Charlie and his father Antonio opened the doors in 1999. Now, 27 years later, they’ve expanded to another historic area, dominated by long-term tenants and heritage brands: The Rocks.
Nestled in a classic sandstone terrace that used to be a bakehouse, the new outpost looks right at home. A very European terrace spreads out onto the street, and not even the winter chill of an August evening seems to deter diners from enjoying this little slice of Italy.
As my husband and I walk in, we are engulfed in the electrifying buzz of a CBD restaurant on a Friday evening. Grappa Leichhardt feels like a library in comparison. There’s energy and all your senses are triggered in the best possible way.
We rocked up without a booking (scandalous), so the host offers to sit us at the kitchen counter. Now I know that for some people this is a second-rate seating option but we love a kitchen counter. We’ll take the kitchen counter over the cushy booth any day, simply because when you sit at the kitchen counter, you get dinner and a show. You get to meet one of the most passionate people you’ll ever meet and you get to see the menu come to life.
You don’t even need to look at the menu when you sit at the kitchen counter, you can simply look at the dishes being handed over the pass to pick what you most want to eat. It will be difficult, however, as every dish looked better than the last, and when you finally think you’ve made up your mind, they’ll bring out another tantalizing option to tempt you.
Based on our observations that night, the fresh figs wrapped in prosciutto and drizzled with warm Gorgonzola sauce are the stars of the show (understandably).
But we came for pasta and we were glad we did. The rigatoni Grappa is a non-alcoholic take on the rigatoni alla vodka that will make you question the need to add vodka in the first place and the spaghettini vongole had my husband fishing out every.single.strand of pasta from his plate.
At Grappa Leichhardt the decor is quite simple; it’s a modern big open room encased in floor-to-ceiling windows. But Grappa The Rocks is different. It’s an old building full of nooks and crannies, lovingly restored to the standards of modern comfort. Think sandstone walls, dark, rich woods, plush burgundy velvet and warm lighting. It’s elevated yet homey and just beautiful to look at.
But the most beautiful part of Grappa The Rocks is the staff. From the host to the waitstaff and the chefs, everyone takes extra care to ensure the experience is flawless for guests. I have never seen so many waiters in a restaurant, so you know you’ll never be left hanging and despite being in the middle of the Friday night rush, the chefs were more than happy to have a chat and take us on a culinary journey with them.
So next time you’re in The Rocks, give this brand-new iteration of Grappa a shot (pun intended). Or book ahead if you really want to avoid the kitchen counter.
