I’ve always felt that “Mediterranean” restaurants in Sydney were really Lebanese restaurants with a kingfish crudo and a lamb shoulder thrown in the mix to give the rest of the area some air time. That was until I dined at Bessie’s & Alma’s. Here, every Mediterranean cuisine is getting some love.
Love Greek food? You’ll die for their lamb shoulder and halloumi. If you prefer Lebanese, their warm flatbread and roasted pepper dip should satisfy you. But the happiest will be fans of Spanish cuisine. From croquetas and jamón ibérico to chorizo and chilli pipis, you won’t know where to stop (and neither should you!).
Nestled on the ground floor of a modern corner building in Surry Hills, Bessie’s & Alma’s is charming from the outside. Rows of old bottles sitting on the window ledge and flickering candles invite passers-by to take a sneak peek inside. Half bar, half restaurant, with its fully open kitchen, the layout offers something for everyone. The colour palette is warm and the art on the walls is funky. It feels premium but also homely – a very hard balance to nail. Everything from the décor to the service feels familiar yet elevated. Our waitress was friendly and efficient, and the dishes came out at the perfect pace.
A lot has been said about the standardisation of Sydney menus (looking at you, kingfish crudo and burrata…) and even though Bessie’s & Alma’s menu might look like it’s no exception at first, it is not what it seems. The dip is roasted pepper, not hummus; the sourdough, a flatbread; and the lobster roll, a Moreton Bay bug sandwich. No barramundi or snapper, but flathead and Murray cod instead.
There’s creativity and a deliberate effort to hero lesser-known ingredients such as fennel, cuttlefish and oxheart tomatoes. And if you like your meals saucy, you’re in luck – almost every dish we ordered came with a delicious, unique sauce, on the side or as the bedrock of the dish. There is no dry food at Bessie’s. Only simple flavours and contrasting textures that collide beautifully.
The desserts are light and on the small side, so don’t hold back. There’s always room for more.
Bessie’s & Alma’s
11-115 Albion St, Surry Hills
Open 7 days a week
